Recipes · Wholemeal wheat and rye

Sepik

The in-between loaf: lighter than leib, darker than sai, and the one children ask for.

Makes
1 oval loaf, or 1 tin
Hands-on
About 30 minutes
Start to finish
About 3½ hours
Oven
220 °C, then 200 °C

Estonian has a word for the bread that sits between leib and sai. Older recipes made sepik from barley or coarse wheat flour; the sepik on a shop shelf today is usually a wholemeal wheat loaf, often with a little rye in it. Mine is close to that, with a spoonful of rye starter for flavour.

Unlike rye, this dough is kneaded. Wheat has the gluten that rye lacks, and ten minutes of kneading turns a shaggy mess into something smooth and stretchy that can hold the shape of a free-standing loaf.

Method

  1. Mix the flours, yeast and salt in a large bowl. Stir the starter and honey into the water, pour it in and mix until there is no dry flour left. Leave it for 15 minutes.
  2. Add the butter and knead for about 10 minutes on a lightly floured table, until the dough is smooth and springs back slowly when pressed. Wholemeal dough stays a little tacky; resist adding much more flour.
  3. Cover and leave to rise at room temperature for 1–1½ hours, until roughly doubled.
  4. Press out the air and shape a tight oval, or roll it into a log for a tin. Roll the top in seeds if you like. Put it on a floured tray or in a greased tin and leave it to rise again for 40–60 minutes.
  5. Heat the oven to 220 °C. Cut one long slash along the top, put the loaf in and pour a small cup of water onto a hot tray at the bottom of the oven for steam.
  6. After 10 minutes turn the oven down to 200 °C and bake for another 25–30 minutes, until deep brown and hollow-sounding underneath. Cool on a rack for at least an hour before cutting.

Notes

  • Sepik is the bread for a slow weekend breakfast: butter, cheese, perhaps smoked fish. It does not keep as long as leib, but after two days it makes very good toast.
  • For a lighter loaf, swap 100 g of the wholemeal for white flour. For a more rustic one add more rye, but keep it under a third of the flour or the loaf will spread.
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